I’ve been fortunate enough to catch several northern lights displays in just a few years, including from my own backyard in Nottingham, U.K. (thank you Gannon Storm 2024). As an aurora reporter, one of the most common questions I get asked is, “Where’s the best place to see them?”
Here’s what I tell everyone: For your best chance, you’ll want to head above the Arctic Circle under the auroral oval. The important thing to keep in mind is that no matter what, make sure you pick somewhere you want to go, regardless of whether the northern lights make an appearance. Why? Well, that’s because they don’t always show up — and that’s part of their charm (and frustration).
That’s why I love Hurtigruten’s voyages. They’re a window into a new world filled with Arctic life, culture and coastlines of unbridled beauty. Even without auroras, they make for an unforgettable adventure. I joined the southbound North Cape Signature Voyage, sailing from Tromsø to Oslo, which meant spending several nights above the Arctic Circle. Being this far north increases your chances of seeing the northern lights; for me it did. And in spectacular fashion at that.
No ordinary cruise
Signature Voyage North Cape Line South
Tromsø — Oslo
Price: From £1834 pp
Duration: 9 days
If you’re interested in booking the Signature Voyage, head over to Hurtigruten’s official site.
Cruising has never really been my thing — at least, not the usual kind of cruising. I’m not drawn to floating resorts with thousands of passengers, 24/7 entertainment, or whistle-stop tours that leave little time to breathe.
My idea of a perfect voyage is quieter, one that doesn’t just give you a taste of a country but lets you truly experience it. Hurtigruten offers that and so very much more.
A couple of years ago, I joined Hurtigruten’s Astronomy Voyage along Norway’s coast. It was a ship full of skywatchers and brilliant lecturers too, as onboard astronomer Tom Kerss turned the northern lights into a living lesson on space weather. I savored every minute of it, and ever since, I’ve wanted to experience Norway’s coast again.
So, when I heard about the company’s new Signature Voyage, I couldn’t wait to see how it compared.
The Signature Voyage lets you stay longer at each port, giving you more time to explore on shore or join guided excursions. It also offers a more in-depth onboard experience, with a larger expedition team leading lectures, tastings and workshops, creating a hands-on connection to the culture and nature around you.
Like the Astronomy Voyage, it’s a breathtaking journey, one that doesn’t just give you a window into Norwegian life, but lets you live it. Waking up to a different view each morning, from snow-capped mountains and rolling hills to dramatic fjords and tiny islands peppering the landscape, there wasn’t a bad view or a dull moment aboard.
The first night: The sky teases us
It’s day one of my latest voyage, and we leave Tromsø under low clouds wrapped around the mountains like a knitted hat. The MS Trollfjord hums north through crisp Arctic air. That night, a few of us paced around on deck, scanning the skies for a faint milky band of light — the first sign that something might be stirring in the Arctic sky.
Then, out of nowhere, a substorm arrives. It seems to tear a hole in the cloud just wide enough to give us aurora hunters a glimpse of the show unfolding above. A thin band of green light snakes across the sky, then suddenly begins to dance, swirling overhead and reaching down to offer us a cosmic handshake and welcome us to the Arctic. A fitting reward for those who had waited patiently out on deck.
By the time the announcement of the show comes over the tannoy and the rest of the passengers rush out after changing into coats and boots, the best of the burst is already fading. Within a minute, it’s gone. The cloud rolls back in and the snow takes hold once more.
North Cape: A taste of the north (Day 2)
At Honningsvåg, the Arctic wind slaps awake any illusions of softness as we look out over the serene winter wilderness. I join a small group of adventurers from the Signature Voyage for an ATV ride up toward the North Cape. The ground is dusted with snow and the otherworldly terrain makes us feel like we’re driving through a majestic painting.
The weather changes every three minutes. Sideways hail, flurries of snow, a splash of rain. The only constant is the roaring wind.
At the North Cape, you truly feel like you’ve reached the edge of the world. It’s the northernmost point of mainland Europe, a place where weather and emotions seem to converge. It’s a must-visit for anyone who ventures this far north.
That evening, as we prepare to set sail, I notice a few stars in a break in the clouds. Good enough for me. Sure enough, a small window opens and a subtle aurora appears. Almost as soon as it did, the modest show began to be shut down by clouds. Hail arrives like a hostile encore.
I retreat to the bar, where there’s live music and a low buzz of happy chatter.
Alta: the city of the northern lights (Day 3)
High above the Arctic Circle, Alta is known as the “city of the northern lights,” a place where auroras often dance overhead for the 21,000 who call Alta their home. As we approach, morning begins to break and Alta’s shoreline flickers with houselights glowing like candles.
This morning, we’re headed to the Northern Lights Cathedral, a striking building with a large spiraling structure and titanium-clad tiles covering the exterior. Consecrated on Feb. 10, 2013, the cathedral was inspired by the meandering waves of auroras and how they dance in the sky. Inside, we join a guided tour to learn more about the interesting architecture and (very well thought-out) design.
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From there, we head to Alta’s rock art, a UNESCO World Heritage Site inscribed in 1985. The carvings and paintings, some dating back as far as 7,000 years, depict fishing, hunting, rituals and moments of daily life. There are even some geometric shapes with no known resemblance to anything we find on Earth today — perhaps these are some prehistoric doodles? I find myself tracing the shapes with my eyes, trying to decipher the stories they tell. Yet, none depicted the aurora. I find it surprising, considering how common they are in this part of the world and how iconic they are to the landscape today.
Later that night, the sky is cruel. A blanket of thick clouds smothers the sky. People slip in and out of the bar to test the weather, hoping for just a glimpse of the stars beyond. Phone alerts buzz with aurora activity, but all we see is clouds. I take a photo anyway and the result is a green sea of clouds, a wicked reminder of what we’re missing.
It’s hard not to be disappointed at times like this, but when you’re chasing auroras, you’re at the whim of nature. And tonight, nature said no thank you.
Instead, we sit together with new friends, imagining the show that might be playing out above the clouds and talking over our day in Alta. I tell a few passengers that up here, Kp index — a scale from 0 to 9 that measures how disturbed Earth’s magnetic field is, the higher the number, the stronger the northern lights — don’t matter as much as clear skies. The solar wind‘s been strong, Earth’s magnetic field is primed. If the clouds lift tomorrow, it could be our night.
Narvik: Snow flurries and an aurora show to remember (Day 4)
We slide into Narvik under a sky that can’t seem to make up its mind. Sitting in the lounge, the panoramic windows frame a serene scene: gulls looking for their next meal, a working harbor and a rain shower that doesn’t quite commit. The Arctic Train takes us along rugged mountainsides, and with every passing minute, the season changes. It’s a truly stunning ride, where autumn fades into winter almost in the blink of an eye. At the top, we step out into powder snow at least two feet deep, a stark contrast to the mild, rain-soaked landscape we’d left below. We learn about the Ofoten Line, built to carry iron ore through the wild terrain, before beginning our descent. On the way back down, the crew handed out warm cinnamon buns, exactly what we all needed.
That evening, I enjoyed an exquisite dinner at Røst, the ship’s fine dining restaurant. Each of the five courses is a story, ingredients drawn from the Norwegian coast and served with a smile and an interesting insight into the inspiration behind each plate.
But I couldn’t fully relax, I still had one eye on the aurora forecast and another on the radar satellite imagery telling me we were heading towards some relatively clear skies. I had a peek outside. I spotted a telltale sign of something stirring as a milky green band whipped across the sky. This was it. I ran downstairs, donned my warm clothes and dashed back out on deck, camera in hand. It didn’t take long for the deck to turn into a tiny festival, gasps, cheers and the soft click of a hundred shutters. The faint green band grows brighter, stretching across the sky and dancing to the whims of Earth’s magnetic field. Then comes the color. The waxing and waning of the substorm conditions fuel auroras all night, keeping us spellbound for hours.
The atmosphere is one of pure joy. Sometimes it’s loud, awe-inspiring and exciting. Other times it’s hushed as people take it all in and use the moment to reflect. People compare the shapes to animals. I see a chameleon with a long curling tail; someone else swears they can see a whale. Some stand there speechless, attempting to take it all in.
Near midnight, I retreat to my cabin, open the blinds and lie in bed watching the green curtains flicker and ripple through the sky. It’s surreal, auroras from under a duvet.
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The days that followed
Narvik set the bar impossibly high, but the days that followed were no less special.
We drifted south through fjords brushed with morning light, past the Seven Sisters, with the sunlight finally warming our faces. The coming days were filled with interesting lectures on whales to navigation, cooking demonstrations out on deck and craft sessions where wool and conversations intertwined.
At Åndalsnes, I took the gondola up the mountain. The view that greeted me left me utterly speechless. I walked for several hours, pausing often to take in the way the light shifted across the landscape. The unrivalled beauty of that place will stay with me forever.
The remaining evenings were cloudy and, as we ventured further south, the chances of northern lights dimmed. So, instead of racing out on deck every five minutes to see if we could catch a glimpse, we relaxed in the bar and enjoyed each other’s company, reminiscing about the unforgettable night of vibrant aurora activity and sharing plans for future adventures.
When I needed a moment of quiet, I found it in the sauna, its floor-to-ceiling windows framing the Norwegian coast like a painting that won’t stay still. I followed the view with an ice-cold shower, just to let the Arctic in one last time.
So, is an aurora cruise right for you?
If you’re looking for a floating city, this isn’t it. But if you crave authenticity and a voyage that lets you see, taste and experience the coastline, then absolutely, this is the voyage for you.
Life aboard the MS Trollfjord is very special indeed.
As fellow passenger Louise Capp from California told me, “The journey is the destination with Hurtigruten. The camaraderie that develops on the aurora cruise is the best part of the cruise.” Capp went on to describe seeing the northern lights as “both awesome and magical. I felt alone in the universe; and I also felt deeply connected to my fellow stargazers”.
That feeling of shared wonder echoed again and again with everyone I spoke to. Art Killian, from Illinois, put it perfectly, “the Northern Lights! We’d met before, in photos … but on that chilly October night in the Norwegian fjords, they reached right out and shook our hand! Thanks to the remarkable crew of the MS Trollfjord, and the insight and guidance of our adopted pal, Daisy Dobrijevic, we saw them the way they need to be seen … wild, unpredictable, gorgeous and fleeting.”
For Bob Miller from Illinois, the entire experience was both overwhelming and humbling. “Norway’s coast is unique and ruggedly beautiful. The northern lights were stunning in their behavior and hints of color that technology only enhanced. Staring at them for over an hour was more than what I expected and really more than my mind could process. The universe amazed me yet again.”
And Rose Miller, from Illinois, summed up what so many of us felt by the end of the voyage, “the fjords were immense and amazing to see. The cities and towns are so pretty and clean and the people are so very nice. The topper was seeing the northern lights. They were just truly stunning and left you awestruck.”
Hurtigruten’s Signature Voyage offers time to explore, reflect and share the deck with other like-minded individuals in pursuit of something truly remarkable, the northern lights.
I came for the northern lights but found so much more. The crew made everything effortless and the ship became a bubble of warmth and good energy. Days were as full or as quiet as you needed them to be.
One night may give you the lights, but it’s everything in between — the waiting, the wonder, the laughter — that makes the journey unforgettable.
Editor’s note: This article was made possible by travel provided by Hurtigruten
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