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Forget the Hallmark Movies: This Real-Life Victorian Christmas Festival is Better | Better Living

    I thought I was visiting a standard Victorian street festival. I expected a few costumes, maybe some hot cider, and a quick walk-through.

    Instead, a small Eastern Shore town quietly kicked off my entire holiday season.

    I’d heard about Dickens of a Christmas in Chestertown, Maryland. Held the first weekend of December, it promises a Victorian-themed experience. But what I wasn’t prepared for was how fully the town commits to it, or how quickly a single weekend would shift me into Christmas mode.

    Dickens of a Christmas in Chestertown, MD

    High Street transforms into a Victorian marketplace for the first weekend of December | Photo: Better Living

    Historic Chestertown doesn’t need to pretend. It dates back to 1706 and was founded as a working port on the Chester River, exporting tobacco and grain, and building ships. They even had their own Tea Party in 1774 to protest British taxation.

    That history isn’t just in a museum; it’s visible in the bricks.

    Eighteenth-century buildings line sidewalks that feel largely unchanged. This is exactly why “Dickens” works so well here. When a town already has this much real history, adding period costumes and hay bales doesn’t feel staged.

    It feels like the town is remembering itself.

    I spent both days of the festival staying at Brampton 1860, just four minutes outside of town. While Friday evening set the mood, Saturday was when everything clicked. I spent most of the day wandering High Street, moving slowly, and letting the atmosphere do the work.

    An Era Layered on Top of Another

    Victorian-dressed couple in period costumes sitting on hay bales around small firepit at Dickens of a Christmas festival, woman in red velvet coat with top hat, man in black suit, Eastern Shore Fire BBQ tent and food vendors in background, authentic 1840s London atmosphere
    Victorian London comes to life at Dickens of a Christmas in Chestertown, MD | Photo: Better Living

    What makes Dickens of a Christmas different is that Chestertown doesn’t have to fake the set design.

    The downtown is the real thing. When Victorian costumes, vendor tents, and hay bales appear, it doesn’t feel like a recreation. It feels like one era gently layered on top of another.

    Vendor tents line the closed streets. Hay bales turn into casual seating around firepits. Draft horses pull holiday carriages through the crowds.

    First-person view from inside red holiday carriage showing draft horse pulling through Chestertown residential street with historic homes, passenger wearing Santa hat visible
    The carriage ride offers unique views of Chestertown’s preserved 18th-century architecture | Photo: Better Living

    I took one of the complimentary carriage rides sponsored by Brampton 1860, and it ended up being a highlight. The loop took me through the town’s most charming streets, past historic homes and under bare winter trees.

    From the carriage, the preservation of the town becomes even more apparent. These are not recreations. These are buildings that have stood here for centuries, watching holidays come and go.

    Oyster Stew, Figgy Pudding, and Firepits

    Close-up of oyster stew in white takeout container showing plump oysters in creamy broth with wooden spoon, figgy pudding visible in background
    Fresh oyster stew and figgy pudding warm festival-goers on cold December afternoons | Photo: Better Living

    The food was delicious and comforting, which matters when you are outside for hours in December.

    • The Oyster Stew: A generous serving of fresh oysters in a creamy broth. I ate this sitting on a hay bale near a firepit, and it was exactly what the cold afternoon called for.
    • The Figgy Pudding: Beyond the Christmas carol, I had no idea what to expect. It turned out to be a dense, spiced cake that was rich, complex, and unmistakably festive.

    Eating hot stew on a hay bale by the fire, watching people in Victorian costume walk by, has a way of slowing time.

    A Farmers Market That Fits the Scene

    Crowded Chestertown farmers market with vendor tents lining street, shoppers browsing produce and goods on winter day with bare trees overhead
    Chestertown’s year-round farmers market folds seamlessly into the Dickens festival weekend

    Chestertown’s Farmers Market runs year-round on Saturdays. During Dickens of a Christmas weekend, the market folds naturally into the festival.

    There was a petting zoo drawing steady crowds, featuring goats, ducks, a mini rooster, and even a Scottish Highland cow with long horns and a shaggy coat. Watching families interact with the animals added a warmth that went beyond the Victorian theme.

    Hands holding colorful miniature rooster with red and black feathers at petting zoo during Dickens festival
    The farmers market petting zoo features goats, ducks, and even a mini rooster | Photo: Better Living

    This wasn’t just about costumes; it was about the town coming together around something genuinely joyful.

    Quaint Shops in Historic Buildings

    Interior of Twigs and Teacups shop showing holiday merchandise including Christmas mugs, kitchenware, jams, and decorations with shopkeeper in Victorian costume browsing
    Local shops like Twigs and Teacups offer carefully curated gifts and holiday items | Photo: Better Living

    Between festival moments, I stepped inside Chestertown’s shops. These aren’t tourist traps; they are independent and carefully curated.

    See also

    • Walnut and Wool: Decorated with vintage Christmas trees and pressed tin ceilings.
    • Bespoke Chocolates: Handmade truffles displayed beneath a silver tree hung with chocolate ornaments.
    • Book Plate: A reminder of why independent bookstores matter, with floor-to-ceiling shelves and that unmistakable smell of books.
    • Twigs and Teacups: A perfect mix of holiday gifts, kitchenware to toys, and everything in between.
    • Coco’s Pet Center: Specializing in unique, fun, local, handmade products for pets.

    Why Brampton 1860 Was the Perfect Base

    Historic brick Brampton 1860 inn decorated with Christmas lights and wreaths at twilight, with snow dusting the front lawn and a pink sunset sky behind the building
    Brampton 1860 offers the perfect retreat after a day at the festival | Photo: Better Living

    Staying at Brampton 1860 turned out to be the perfect pairing for Dickens of Christmas. After hours in the cold, I could retreat to my cottage just minutes away. It was also fun to see most of the guests in the Manor House “dressed like the dickens” throughout the weekend.

    On Saturday afternoon, I left the festival around 4 PM to make it back for tea time. Over Poinsettia cocktails and Chef Carol’s fresh-baked cookies in the Manor House, I talked through favorite moments from the day.

    Cozy library room at Brampton 1860 with floor-to-ceiling bookshelves, leather furniture, fireplace with burning fire, and large decorated Christmas tree with red ribbons
    The Manor House library at Brampton 1860 | Photo: Better Living

    The next morning at breakfast, guests traded stories of their time at Dickens – what they bought, what they ate, and their plans for next year. That shift from public celebration to private comfort gave the weekend a perfect rhythm.

    ➡ See our full Brampton 1860 review

    Why It Sticks With You

    Festival attendees in period costume sitting on antique Victorian couch and hay bales near firepit with bulldog wearing Christmas sweater in foreground
    Hay bales, firepits, and even sofas create casual gathering spots throughout the festival | Photo: Better Living

    I came for a Victorian festival and left talking about starting a new tradition.

    The logistics aren’t what linger. What stays with me is the feeling of a small town celebration that welcomes visitors into that experience.

    The costumes are fun. The food is comforting. The history is real. But it’s the warmth and ease of the community that makes the weekend feel meaningful.

    I’m already planning my return next year.

    🎄 Plan Your Trip: Dickens of a Christmas

    Woman in Victorian dress posing with Father Christmas character in decorative sleigh at night in front of Dickens of a Christmas festival banner
    Victorian characters bring the festival to life throughout Historic Chestertown, MD | Photo: Better Living
    • Location: Downtown Chestertown, Maryland (High Street).
    • When: The first full weekend of December.
    • Cost: Free to attend. Bring cash for food vendors and the market.
    • Where to Stay: Brampton 1860 (Book well in advance, as this is a popular weekend).
    • Don’t Miss: The Carriage Rides and the Oyster Stew.

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