Chemical Exfoliation for Beginners: A Comprehensive Guide
If you’re in the market for noticeably smoother, glowier, clearer skin, the secret—no matter your skin type—is regular exfoliation. There are two types of exfoliation, chemical and physical (also called mechanical exfoliation). Both types have their advantages, but chemical exfoliators—usually combinations of acids or enzymes—dissolve debris, dead skin cells, and other impurities in a uniform manner that leaves skin exceptionally even. Whether they’re infused into resurfacing cleansers, overnight serums, masks, or peels, chemical exfoliants can vary in strength dramatically, and they help with everything from extreme dryness to blackheads, improving cell turnover, uneven skin texture, dullness, and hyperpigmentation.
Daily Cleanser
Alpyn Beauty
PlantGenius Creamy Bubbling Cleanser
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Vintner’s Daughter
Active Treatment Essence
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GOOPGLOW Dark Spot Exfoliating Sleep Milk
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GOOPGLOW 15% Glycolic Acid
Overnight Glow Peel
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Physical exfoliants include anything from a washcloth to a scrub containing beads or small granules that slough off dead cells manually. They’re easiest to use while showering; you’ll feel an instant softness the second you get out of the shower. Too much intense exfoliation—whether chemical or physical—can be irritating, and physical exfoliants have the potential to cause microtears in the skin. As your skin acclimates to either type of exfoliation, you may be able to increase the frequency (depending on your skin type and level of sensitivity).
What are the different types of chemical exfoliators?
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), poly hydroxy acids (PHAs), fruit and flower acids, and enzymes are among the most common types of chemical exfoliators.
AHAs
Water-soluble with small molecular sizes, AHAs are the strongest among the chemical exfoliants. Glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, tartaric, and mandelic acids are AHAs commonly used in skin care. AHAs exfoliate the top layers of skin and are best for dark spots, surface wrinkles, fine lines, uneven skin tone, and even dry skin (glycolic acid was actually initially developed to treat an extreme dry skin condition called ichthyosis).
Glycolic and Lactic Acid Serum
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GOOPGLOW Dark Spot Exfoliating Sleep Milk
goop, $98/$89 with subscriptionSHOP NOWGlycolic and Phytic Acid Toner
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G.Tox Malachite + AHA Pore Refining Tonic
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Tata Harper
Radiance Mask
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BHAs
BHAs are slightly larger molecules that are oil-soluble. They penetrate the skin through oil glands, helping unclog pores. The most common BHA in skin care is salicylic acid—it’s in every formula below—which is best for blemish-prone skin where oil production is an issue.
Gel-to-Milk Face Wash
(Doubles as a Mask)
Okoko
Beauté Majestique Cleanser
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Plantkos
Phyto Exfoliating Cleanser
goop, $37SHOP NOWFace Wash for the Breakout-Prone
True Botanicals
Clear Nourishing Cleanser
goop, $48SHOP NOWPHAs
PHAs are larger molecules that are water-soluble and the least irritating of the acids. Ideal for sensitive skin, PHAs exfoliate on the surface of the skin and are best for locking in moisture.
Gentle (but Effective) Toner
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GOOPGLOW Flower Acids
Resurfacing Toner
goop, $45/$40 with subscriptionSHOP NOWFruit and Flower Acids and Enzymes
These exfoliants work by eating away at dead skin and debris. At moderate concentrations, they’re gentle and well tolerated by many skin types.
Whipped Balm Cleanser with Fruit Acids
Skin Design London
Face Bath
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What are combination exfoliants?
Some of the most effective skin-boosting formulas contain both chemical and physical exfoliants, which are a great complement to each other. The chemical exfoliants dissolve and loosen debris, while the physical exfoliants scrub it away. Combined, the two approaches optimize cellular turnover and leave skin brighter and smoother.
Face Polish
Glycolic Acid and
Microexfoliating Minerals
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GOOPGLOW Microderm Instant Glow Exfoliator
goop, $125/$112 with subscriptionSHOP NOWCleanser for Sensitive Skin
Cranberry Enzymes and Rice Powder
Tata Harper
Refining Cleanser
goop, $88SHOP NOWCleanser for Normal and All Skin Types
Pomegranate Enzymes and Bamboo
Fath
The Resurfacing Botanical Cleanser
goop, $82SHOP NOWMask
Glycolic Acid and Rice Particles
Humanrace
Lotus Enzyme Exfoliator
goop, $46SHOP NOWBody Polish
Hibiscus Flower Acid and
Microexfoliating Minerals
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GOOPGLOW Microderm Instant
Glow Body Polish
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What skin types are chemical exfoliants best for?
Most skin types and most skin concerns can benefit from gentle regular chemical exfoliation. Not only will your skin look smoother and feel softer, but any skin treatments you use afterward will sink into your skin more evenly and penetrate more deeply; dead skin cells and debris can act as barriers between your skin and skin care.
For Normal and Dry Skin
Hydrating Toner with Citric Acid
MAKANAI
Pure Botanical Charge Lotion Toner
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Moisturizing Cleanser with Lactic Acid
Tata Harper
Softening Cleanser
goop, $88SHOP NOW
What about Oily Skin?
Oily skin types can typically handle either chemical or purely physical exfoliation. If you get breakouts often, use chemical exfoliants to fight oil and blemishes from a deeper level in the skin; AHAs and salicylic acid are most effective. If using a physical exfoliant, choose one with super fine particles as opposed to big, abrasive granules.
Blemish-Fighting Cleanser with
Glycolic Acid
goop Beauty
G.Tox Malachite + Fruit Acid Pore
Purifying Cleanser
goop, $48/$44 with subscriptionSHOP NOWDetoxifying Charcoal Face Scrub
Clark’s Botanicals
Dual Charcoal Detox
goop, $45SHOP NOW
How often should you exfoliate your skin?
Overexfoliating (exfoliating too often or too intensely for your skin type) can strip away the skin’s protective barrier, leaving it vulnerable to sun damage, dryness, and even infection. So take it slow at first. Never use a product more often than recommended, and never layer intense exfoliants in the same session. If an exfoliant ever feels uncomfortable, rinse it off immediately. If you have sensitive skin, really err on the side of caution and patch-test any exfoliating product before applying it to your face.
To put it simply, those with less-sensitive skin can exfoliate more frequently, while those who are more sensitive need less-powerful formulas and less frequency overall.
What types of products should be used in a skin-care routine with exfoliation?
Exfoliants have the potential to leave skin feeling dry, so moisturize immediately afterward if your skin needs it.
Rich Cream
Augustinus Bader
The Rich Cream
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Alpyn Beauty
Triple Vitamin-C Brightening Bounce Cream
goop, $49SHOP NOWFirming Face Oil
goop Beauty
GOOPGENES All-in-One Super
Nutrient Face Oil
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SPF is very important post-exfoliation, especially since AHAs and BHAs can make skin more sensitive to the sun.
Vitamin C is one of the most beneficial and researched-for-skin antioxidants for boosting glow, refining texture, and offering protection against environmental aggressors. It’s well tolerated by most skin types, but if you’re sensitive, use it cautiously after exfoliating, since vitamin C itself is a mild exfoliant.
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Grown Alchemist
Natural Hydrating Sunscreen SPF 30
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GOOPGLOW 20% Vitamin C +
Hyaluronic Acid Glow Serum
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What’s the best time of day to exfoliate your face?
Does your skin need time to recover?
Because chemical exfoliants can make skin more sensitive to the sun, they’re best applied at night. Physical exfoliants can be used morning or night (as long as you’re wearing sunscreen in the day). When exfoliating, be sure to apply the formula to clean skin to prevent makeup or dirt from being pushed deeper, as well as to allow the product to really penetrate.
How do we test clean beauty products at goop? First they have to pass our standards for clean (goop has some of the toughest standards in the industry). Only then do they make it to our editors’ showers, bathroom counters, and makeup bags, where they are rigorously hand-tested (and road-tested, if we happen to be going on a trip). The goop beauty department is made up of women of varied ages, races, and tastes—if we really love something, we’re pretty confident you’re going to love it, too.
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