“It’s harder to evaluate since the key actives are proprietary,” says Dr. Ibrahim, “but ingredients like songyi mushroom (tricholoma matsutake) and Sichuan pepper have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, which could help buffer oxidative stress in the follicle—a big factor in graying.” He also notes that “acetyl tyrosine this formula might support melanin synthesis under the right conditions,” and that the idea of delaying gray “makes some sense, especially if it’s used preventively rather than as a reversal treatment.” The formula is fragrance-free, gentle enough for daily use, and requires no rinsing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do I have gray hair?
The development of gray hair is a normal part of aging, caused by the slowing of the body’s melanin production. “Melanocytes in the hair follicle produce pigment during the growth phase of the hair,” Daniel Belkin, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at the Laser & Skin Surgery Center of New York, previously told Allure. “They transfer these packets of pigment into the cells that ultimately become the hair shaft.” With hair growth over time, however, the melanocytes produce less and less pigment, leading to grays. “One day they decide not to show up for work anymore— consider it retirement,” adds Mona Gohara, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Hamden, Connecticut.
According to the Department of Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital, the first gray hairs typically pop up between the ages of 34 and 44, but that doesn’t mean they can’t appear earlier. Genetic predisposition to grays may be at play, but you may have heard stress is a leading cause of early graying.
“It is unclear whether emotional stress is truly associated with graying of the hair,” Joshua Zeichner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research at the Mount Sinai Department of Dermatology in New York City, previously explained to Allure. “We know that stress can have physical effects, interfering with wound healing and promoting inflammation. We don’t know how significant an impact it has on hair color, but I would not be surprised if one day a definite association is found.” Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City, previously explained that lifestyle elements like anemia, smoking, low vitamin B, untreated thyroid illness, and poor nutrition can also contribute to premature graying.
Can I reverse gray hair?
Color-reversing gray hair treatments are most likely to be effective the earlier you begin using them and are thought to work best on grays related to stress. Ralf Paus, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at the University of Miami, participated in a 2021 gray-reversing related study, about which he told Scientific American, “…there is a window of opportunity during which graying is probably much more reversible than had been thought for a long time.”
Still, dermatologists and trichologists have yet to perfect the treatment and its delivery into follicles, and the jury is out on efficacy. “If you’re applying something topically, like in a shampoo, it’s much harder than you think for that to penetrate through to the skin, right down to the root of the hair, where it needs to be,” James O’Sullivan, PhD, a postdoctoral research associate in developmental biology and cell metabolism, previously told Allure. “So there’s a bit of a dilemma about delivery and how to get stuff all the way down there.” Rebecca Marcus, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Dallas, Texas, added, “The depth of penetration depends on the molecular size and weight of the active ingredient.”
That being said, until science develops a method to reverse gray hair, Dr. Gohara explains, the only surefire way to eliminate grays 100% is with hair dye.
How should I choose a gray hair treatment?
Your choice of gray hair treatment depends on the concerns you’re looking to address and the level of gray or white hair you currently have. In any case, because dry hair and gray hair can go hand in hand, a product that moisturizes hair from roots to ends is essential, colorist Kylie Williard Fritas previously told Allure. “Gray hair tends to be more on the dry side which happens generally as we age and our body starts to lose moisture. That’s why we recommend using highly moisturizing conditioners and styling products to help prevent dryness and dull, frizzy hair texture,” added New York City-based hair colorist Clara Purvis. “Additionally, regular oil treatments and hair masks are great ways to increase moisture.”
Dr. Gohara reminds readers to focus on prevention rather than reversal. “Choose a treatment knowing that you may get slowing of gray coming in at the roots, but nothing that will permanently get rid of those grays,” she explains.
Meet the experts
- Omer Ibrahim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Salmalita Cosmetics, based in Chicago
- Gina Rivera, a hair artist and founder of Phenix Salon Suites based in Las Vegas
- Sean Michael, a hairstylist and owner of Salon Beau, based in Andover, Massachusetts
- Daniel Belkin, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at the Laser & Skin Surgery Center of New York
- Joshua Zeichner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research at the Mount Sinai Department of Dermatology in New York
- Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City,
- Ralf Paus, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at the University of Miami
- James O’Sullivan, PhD, a postdoctoral research associate in developmental biology and cell
- Rebecca Marcus, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Dallas
- Kylie Williard Fritas, a hair colorist based in New York City and Aspen
- Clara Purvis, a hair colorist based in New York City
- Mona Gohara, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Hamden, Connecticut
How we test and review products
We always enlist a range of testers for our makeup vertical, but hair-care products and tools are another story. While there are certainly products that can be used across different hair textures, lengths, curl patterns, thicknesses, colors (natural and unnatural), and needs, hair products are often created with specific consumers in mind. Many are created in order to address a concern (dandruff, breakage, brittleness) or to work most effectively for a specific hair type (4C curls, wavy hair, gray hair). You wouldn’t want to pick up a purple shampoo that’s only been reviewed by someone with, say, auburn hair, or a diffuser that’s never been tested by anyone with curls—right?
For our review of the best gray hair treatments, we enlisted the help of multiple editors, writers, contributors, dermatologists, researchers, and hair colorists—who all have experience with treating gray hair. Testers considered performance across four primary categories: efficacy, texture and experience, fragrance, and packaging. For more on what’s involved in our reporting, check out our complete reviews process and methodology page.
Our staff and testers
A beauty product is a personal purchase. You might be searching for a face cream to address persistent dryness or a new nail product to add to your Sunday self-care routine; you may simply be browsing around for the latest launches to hit the hair market. No matter what you seek or your individual needs and concerns, Allure wants to ensure that you love anything we recommend in our stories. We believe that having a diverse team of writers and editors—in addition to the wide range of outside testers and industry experts we regularly call upon—is essential to reaching that goal.
After all, can we really say a skin-care product is the “best” for people over 50 if the only testers we’ve solicited opinions from folks who have yet to hit 30? Can we honestly deem a high-end diffuser worthy of your hard-earned cash if it’s never been tested on curls? We’re proud that our staff spans a wide range of ages, skin tones, hair textures, genders, and backgrounds, which means that we are able to fairly assess any beauty product that comes into the beauty closet.
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