Bangui La Coquette | Sophie’s World Travel Inspiration

Bangui La Coquette. Central African Republic. Where to even begin?

Central African Republic: What’s in a name

I’ll begin by abbreviating it. Central African Republic is an unwieldy name. Of course, it is in the central parts of Africa. (In that respect, South Africa is not much better as names go.) And it is a republic. Although, for a short period, it was known as the Central African Empire, when then president – you might have heard of him, Bokassa was his name – decided that Emperor was a much cooler title than merely president (does it remind you of someone?). That was in 1976. Less than 3 years later, the empire collapsed after a coup, and the republic was resurrected.

But Central African Republic really is a long and cumbersome name, and frankly pretty unsexy. What could be a better one?

Back in the French colonial days, the country was known as Ubangi-Shari, after two important rivers. Why change such a great name? I’m glad you asked. You see, the first Premier after independence, one Barthélémy Boganda, had a grandiose vision of a large union – the United States of Latin Africa. In addition to present-day Central African Republic, this federation would consist of Angola, Burundi, Cameroon, Chad, Congo-Kinshasa (DRC), Congo-Brazzaville, Equatorial Guinea, and Rwanda.

This, Boganda thought, was necessary as a French-speaking/Latin balance to the British-speaking southern bloc, comprising South Africa and the Federation of Rhodesia and Nyasaland (present-day Zimbabwe, Zambia and Malawi.)

Was it a good idea? Well, nobody knows how that would have turned out, because it never came to pass. In 1959, Boganda, then 48, died in a plane crash. Explosives were found in the wreckage. Some suspect the French Secret Service, others his estranged French secretary-turned-wife.

As for names, I vote for Ubangi-Shari. It’s named for rivers, one of the best features of nature, and it is so much more interesting than the current name. But for now, Central African Republic it is. Republique Centrafricaine in French, the country’s official language. And I will use RCA, because the English abbreviation – CAR – sounds just too ridiculous. (If you insist on using it, at least pronounce it C-A-R.)

And Bangui La Coquette?

See the sign up in the hills there? Bangui, capital of RCA, in big bold letters. But what is a little more difficult to spot is La Coquette in a more delicate script underneath: the flirt, the beautiful, the pleasant. La Coquette was the city’s nickname in the 1970s, and still is. Although today, it is more nostalgia than reality.

My adventures in RCA

But what am I doing in this not exactly world-famous country?

Fun with colours on Avenue des Martyrs

Well, you know my ongoing project, don’t you? Visiting every country in the world. RCA is 154/198. Getting there!

Some of those 198 are challenging, to put it mildly. And RCA is my most challenging so far, even more than Iraq and Somalia. Getting all the documentation required to get a visa isn’t easy. But just as importantly, and to be absolutely clear, it is a dangerous country to travel around in (see RCA: advice at the end of this post). Luckily, good fortune has always been my friend!

RCA wasn’t always so troublesome. Once upon a time, this is where you would go to experience stunning nature and wildlife. For now, that is easier said than done. It is expensive, distances are long and the roads are dangerous. The only real option is by chartered flight.

Let’s hope the security situation will improve, so travellers can once again go to RCA to see those gorgeous lowland gorillas and forest elephants, and bring in sorely needed tourist income to the country. But above all, so the locals can live their lives in safety.

A word on RCA politics

Ever since independence in 1960, RCA has seen more than its fair share of violence and instability. In 2012/2013, an alliance of rebel groups known as Séléka, for the most part Muslim men, took over much of the country, including the capital, and ousted the government. As a response, the Anti-balaka alliance, for the most part Christian men, attacked the Séléka rebels with equal force and brutality. This civil war led to the killing, intimidation and displacement of thousands of civilians, all to control mineral resources and migration routes. Several peace agreements have been attempted, none have been successful.

I highly recommend the recently released film Før Mørket  – Safe House in English – based on a true story about 15 dramatic hours at MSF’s (Doctors without Borders) field hospital in Bangui. (Some of the dialogue is in Norwegian, but you’ll get it.) The film is frightening and edge-of-your-seat intense. I watched it just a few days before travelling to RCA, and had to remind myself several times this was in 2013, not today.

On Christmas Eve 2013, during the civil war in the Central African Republic, a Norwegian aid worker in a field hospital strives to protect a Muslim man from a Christian militia, without endangering her colleagues’ safety.

From Imdb

Even now, in 2025, there is still a huge NGO presence here in RCA. It feels like every second car on the road is either an NGO vehicle or military.

On the road and in the air – here they are, lined up: UN, Red Cross, Doctors without Borders…

Current situation

Faustin-Archange Touadéra, president since 2016, will run for office again in this year’s elections. And he can, after changing the constitution so that there is no longer a limit on number of terms. (Again, reminding you of someone?) Will he win again?

Not unlikely, is it…

His government is helped by Rwandan soldiers and the Wagner Group. What’s in it for them? Access to minerals, that’s what. Gold and diamonds.

Not exactly invisible around town, the Wagners

Now, I can’t say anything about Yevgeny and Dmitry specifically, but I think it is safe to say that the vast majority of the 1,000 Wagner mercenaries in this country are not nice guys. But you knew that already, didn’t you?

Back to my travels in RCA

Group tours are rarely my thing. There is always someone, isn’t there? Someone very annoying. In every group! So I usually travel solo, or with friends and/or family. But when the good folks over at Nomadmania announced they were organising a trip to RCA, I could not say no.

I meet David in Cameroon and we fly over to Bangui, where we meet up with Ellen. Kinda wish it had been only the three of us, but… Extreme travellers can’t always be choosers.

Our first full day in RCA begins with a look at the Central African Parliament. That is the plan anyway. We are curious as to whether we will be allowed to take photos. Two weeks ago, one group of travellers were allowed to snap a few. But last week, another group was not even allowed inside the building. Seems random, the whole thing.

We got lucky! Parliament is being prepped for an event, and everyone seems to be in a good mood. So here goes: unlimited selfies.

Bangui drama

We spend the first afternoon at Boali Falls. More on that in the next post.

Back in Bangui, it’s pool time, then dinner time. We are off to a local restaurant and ready for delicious African food, but get side-tracked when our taxi is stopped at a random check point. I’m in the front seat, and not wearing a seat belt. That is illegal, says the police officer. I must pay a fine. To him. In cash. Well, I can’t very well wear a seat belt, when there isn’t one in the car, can I? Not his problem, he says. It’s still illegal. And I suppose he is right. But…

I argue, he argues back. He refuses to return our passports. My French gets increasingly bad, both deliberately and because I’m pretty nervous by now. It feels quite intimidating, especially since his rifle passes only centimetres from my face whenever he moves around. Weird thoughts fly through my head. What if the gun accidentally goes off? If a bullet hits my right cheek, will it go through the left, and hit the driver? I say I have no money. He says, then you will have to come with me over there, and points to a corner. And bring your bag. It is pitch black outside, and the corner is even darker. It’s all very unpleasant, and I am considering abandoning my no-bribe principle, when the taxi driver takes charge of the situation, and gives him some money. Passports returned.

Of course, when I tell the kids later, they tell me I was being ridiculous. The ‘fine’ he asked for, amounted to ca 30 Euro. Are you prepared to die for 30 Euro, you stupid woman? But but… I truly despise corruption and will not have any part in it, I say, when I can get a word in edgewise. ‘When you choose to travel in a questionable country, with questionable cops, you abide by their customs, however questionable. You pay the damned bribe.’ (Actually, they used stronger language, but keeping it PG-13 here).

A minute or so later, we stop at the restaurant. Getting out of the taxi, I’m so focussed on not leaving my passport and money, I forget my phone. And so I’m phone-less (and thus camera-less) for the rest of the time in RCA and the following days in Gabon. Good thing, I’m not travelling solo this time.

The place is lively and atmospheric, food is nice, and service is friendly. It’s called Cafrina – and hereby recommended. Just, you know, make sure your taxi has seat belts.

Bangui scenes

Along the street in Bangui

The second full day is dedicated to Bangui. It’s a city with lots going on.

La cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-l’Immaculée-Conception de Bangui

Bangui cathedral is quite nice; built in the typical French tropical style, with a three-door entrance, like Notre-Dame de Paris. There are three church services on Sundays, starting at 06.00.

In 2013, the cathedral was looted by Muslim militia. On a more positive note, two years later, Pope Francis opened the Holy Door of the cathedral, thus making Bangui the spiritual capital of the world, according to Radio Vatican; a historic gesture, a signal of hope. And if it’s something this poor, practically forgotten country can use, it’s hope.

People take church seriously. Beautiful dresses and gorgeous colours everywhere. Lucky to have been here on a Sunday.

Grand Mosquée de Bangui

But that’s not all he did, the good Francis. He also visited Bangui’s Mosque. And so do we; sitting down for a chat with the friendly imam.

Whilst ca 80% of the citizens are Christians, there is a significant Muslim minority here – about 10%. In 2014, the mosque was looted by Christian militia. An eye for an eye? Nothing new under the sun, is it… If they would only listen to Francis.

Christians and Muslims are brothers and sisters.

Pope Francis, when visiting Bangui in 2015.

Never before had a pope visited an active war zone.

Parks

Jardin du cinquantenaire – the 50th anniversary garden – was built to celebrate 50 years since the proclamation of the republic, paying tribute to six presidents. Sadly, like much here in Bangui, it is in dire need of some TLC.

Markets

We stop by a few markets; vibrant hubs of daily life and commerce.

The largest market in Bangui is PK5 (Point Kilométrique 5), known as KM5 in English; 5 kilometres from the city centre along the Route de l’Amitiée (Friendship Road), the main road. Everything is for sale, as always, including a bit of informal currency exchange. You’ll hear loud music at night, from several pubs and bars along Friendship Road.

PK5 was a flashpoint for tensions back in 2013, and peacekeepers are keeping an eye on it still. Armed groups are sometimes present, and crime is prevalent. But to the locals, the markets function as an economic lifeline as well as a social gathering point. This is where they meet, buy, sell, chat, argue… Pretty resilient, the residents of Bangui.

As for you, this is definitely not a place you want to go on your own, day or night. Also, keep your phone out of sight, and ASK before you take any photos.

Russia in RCA

Russia is clearly present in Bangui. Next to the Wagner sculpture, is a Russian cultural centre and language school –

Playground in the Russian garden

– and the Russian embassy is very visible with colourful street art along the walls.

For women, by women

A different aspect of Bangui, far removed from unrest and violence, is Ndara, a company providing work for artisans, who create beautiful bags, clothes, and other unique, handcrafted products. We visit their boutique in Bangui and have a chat with these cheerful ladies – and buy some necessities (my bag is still in the mysterious Air France void, in another country…).

Women are the backbone of society in the Central African Republic, in Africa in general, and actually, in most countries in the world. If you want to make a durable difference in communities, you need to invest in women. They always invest back into their families and communities.

Charlotte, Ndara’s founder

Our last night in RCA, we want to see where the hip young folk of Bangui hang out at night. Beers, dancing, and footy’s on.

Bangui Nights

Along Ubangi River

We have seen the Ubangi numerous times during these four days in town. So how about a boat trip on the river?

On the last day, my flight out is not until late afternoon. Plenty of time!

Ubangi in French is Oubangui

After Bangui, the Ubangi flows south and forms the border between the two Congos, before it joins the mighty Congo River. What a cool journey that would be!

Just across the river is the Democratic Republic of Congo. We looked into crossing over and travel by motorcycle to Zongo, but the visa situation in the DRC is notoriously difficult, so it didn’t work out this time. Fortunately, I had the chance to have a look at that enigmatic country back in January.

River boats, barges, canoes and mekoros (dug-out canoes) ply the waters of the Ubangi all day long, crossing between the DRC and RCA with all kinds of cargo, contraband and passengers – official and unofficial.

RCA: advice

RCA is not somewhere I would go solo unless that was the only option. Will I return? Well, it is not exactly top of my list. But things could happen. The political situation could change. The capital could once again become Bangui La Coquette. So who knows…

And you, should you go? It is not a destination I would recommend to anyone that doesn’t have a whole lot of experience travelling in troubled lands. Almost all countries warn their citizens about travel in RCA. In my experience, the Norwegian Ministry of Foreign Affairs publishes the most level-headed (i.e. least paranoid) travel warnings, and even they say, ‘Do not go to the Central African Republic!’ If we disregard the advice and go anyway, people of European origin are urged to be especially vigilant, as there is widespread animosity towards France and anyone that might be mistaken for being French.

Security is unpredictable, at best. Armed rebel groups ex-Seleka (primarily Muslim) and Anti-balaka (primarily Christian) control different parts of the country. Crime, violence, and kidnappings occur. The courts, police, central authorities, they are all weak and rarely present. And when they are present, well…

Curfew and no-photo rule

There are very strict rules to follow, including a curfew between 2300 and 0500. We are encouraged to stay indoors during this period. David, the ‘I can sleep when I’m dead’-type, is usually up by 0500. On his morning ramblings in Bangui, he wasn’t alone. People were out and about, running, exercising, working out.

There’s also a no photo-rule in place, meaning it is strictly forbidden to photograph public buildings, military installations and surrounding areas. In practice, all photography in the capital requires a special permit, like in Juba. If you do snap away, with or without permit, prepare to be yelled at. Many get quite aggressive about it. All in all, the atmosphere feels a bit menacing – much more so than in Somalia, a country I definitely want to see more of.

If you decide to visit RCA, do not go without a fixer. That’s almost unnecessary to even say, as you won’t get very far without one.

RCA: practicals

• Our visas were issued at Bangui airport on receipt of a message porté, organised by our guide/fixer Steven. Without him, this would have been very difficult to obtain. (Send me a message if you would like his WhatsApp.).
• The immigration officers will keep your passport, but don’t panic. You will get it back in a day or so.
• RCA is for the most part a cash-based society, so make sure you take along enough €.
• We stayed at the Ledger Plaza hotel in Bangui. It is quite nice. And no guns.

Can’t complain!

Oh, and those encounters with forest elephants that are now off limits in RCA, are yours to enjoy next door in Gabon. Stay tuned!

Practically all photos by David Røgler, since my phone went AWOL.