Threads of Time and Taste: The Art of Dressing in Pierre Frey – Quintessence

When I was invited to speak with Patrick Frey for this year’s Nantucket by Design luncheon, I knew I wanted to celebrate not only the extraordinary legacy of Pierre Frey fabrics, but also the Nantucket Historical Association and their summer exhibition on textiles. Both honor the tradition of fine craftsmanship and design, where heritage finds fresh relevance in the present. It felt like a rare and fitting opportunity to weave together past and present, fashion and interiors—threads of time and taste.

If you’ve ever run your fingers across a handwoven fabric or marveled at the intricate design of a centuries-old textile, you already understand that cloth tells a deeper story. Textiles were among the first truly global commodities, connecting distant corners of the world through trade and cultural exchange, shaping who we are and how we live. They helped build empires, spark revolutions, and advance science—dyestuffs, for example, laid the groundwork for modern chemistry. Both Pierre Frey and Nantucket share the influences of global cultures in textiles, bringing the world home through design, materiality and craft. Even on our little island as Michael Harrison, NHA Chief Curator, explains, “So many aspects of island history can be explored through textiles and clothing.” Below, from the exhibit, a quilt shows early innovation, combining local product with imported fabric. “Filled with Nantucket wool, the backing fabric is likely American and the roller-printed glazed cotton top fabric is British, said to have been smuggled onto Nantucket through the British coastal blockade during the War of 1812.”

Years ago, I had the privilege of joining Patrick and a small group of designers for a curator-led tour of the Interwoven Globe exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The show offered a masterful exploration of the interplay between fashion and decorative arts—a theme that left a lasting impression. That memory became the seed of an idea: to create something wearable that would honor that same intersection of disciplines and speak to both heritage and craft.

I was particularly attracted to the mid-18th century Dutch Wentke above and envisioned a jacket inspired by Palampore textiles, steeped in history and rich in decorative storytelling that echoed the theme of our talk—The Transportive Power of Textiles: Bringing the World Home.

After a visit to the Pierre Frey showroom in New York, I selected two harmonious Braquenié patterns, Medallions Bouquets Rayure and Bengali, above, both based on Indo-Persian panels kept in the archives of Maison Pierre Frey. One of my favorite aspects of the larger pattern was its inclusion of stylized mermaids, so reminiscent of Nantucket lore.

I then reached out to Sokayri, a couture atelier recommended by my sister-in-law, to transform these traditionally interior fabrics into a custom piece crafted especially for the occasion. As the owner of the studio explained, “This jacket was more than a bespoke garment—it was a journey. From the initial fitting to the final hand-stitched detail, it embodied a spirit of collaboration, craftsmanship, and care. Every element told a story, woven together with intention and love.”

At each visit, I worked closely with Svetlana, deciding how and where to piece together the many patterns. In an extraordinary display of craftsmanship, she meticulously pieced together the intricate patterns of the two distinct fabrics to create a one-of-a-kind custom jacket. Each fabric, rich in texture and storytelling, offered a unique visual narrative—one bold and complex , the other small with an overall repeat.

Carefully aligning motifs so that florals flowed seamlessly into angular forms, she created visual cohesion without sacrificing the individuality of each textile. Strategic panel placement, hand-cut pattern matching, and subtle tailoring choices ensured that the jacket was not only impeccably constructed but also a wearable work of art, paying homage to the legacy of French textile design.

In true couture fashion, the jacket is a stunning marriage of artistry and vision, with every element thoughtfully considered. But it was the collar that truly elevated the piece to something extraordinary. Hand-embroidered with botanical motifs on an elegant silk border, carefully chosen to complement both the fabrics and my coloring, the collar added just the right touch of delicate detail. It was that subtle yet unforgettable finishing note that made the jacket not just bespoke, but intimate and intentional.

A thank you to The Vault for the generous loan of the exquisite Silvia Furmanovich earrings—an impeccable finishing touch that complemented the jacket to perfection.

But the biggest thank you goes to Patrick Frey and the Pierre Frey team for entrusting me to guide this inspiring talk.

Thank you to everyone who came. Pierre Frey and the Nantucket Historical Association may seem worlds apart—one a storied French textile house, the other a New England cultural institution—but at their core, they share a kindred spirit. Both are devoted to preserving and celebrating history through beauty, craft, and storytelling. Whether it’s Pierre Frey’s exquisite fabrics that bring centuries-old patterns and artisanal techniques into the present, or the NHA’s thoughtful stewardship of Nantucket’s rich past, each reminds us that heritage isn’t just something to be merely admired—it’s something to be lived with, layered into our surroundings, and passed down with care. It’s this shared reverence for tradition and timeless design that makes their connection feel not only natural, but truly inspiring.