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Chemical Exfoliation for Beginners: A Comprehensive Guide

    Chemical Exfoliation for Beginners: A Comprehensive Guide

    Written by: Jean Godfrey-June

    |

    Published on: January 11, 2023

    If you’re in the market for noticeably smoother, glowier, clearer skin, the secret—no matter your skin type—is regular exfoliation. There are two types of exfoliation, chemical and physical (also called mechanical exfoliation). Both types have their advantages, but chemical exfoliators—usually combinations of acids or enzymes—dissolve debris, dead skin cells, and other impurities in a uniform manner that leaves skin exceptionally even. Whether they’re infused into resurfacing cleansers, overnight serums, masks, or peels, chemical exfoliants can vary in strength dramatically, and they help with everything from extreme dryness to blackheads, improving cell turnover, uneven skin texture, dullness, and hyperpigmentation.

    1. Daily Cleanser


      Alpyn Beauty PlantGenius Bubbling Cleanser

      Alpyn Beauty
      PlantGenius Creamy Bubbling Cleanser
      goop, $36

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    2. Daily Toner


      Vintner’s Daughter Active Treatment Essence

      Vintner’s Daughter
      Active Treatment Essence
      goop, $225

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    3. Nightly Serum


      goop Beauty GOOPGLOW Dark Spot Exfoliating Sleep Milk

      goop Beauty
      GOOPGLOW Dark Spot Exfoliating Sleep Milk
      goop, $98/$89 with subscription

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    4. Once-a-Week Chemical Peel


      goop Beauty GOOPGLOW 15% Glycolic Acid Overnight Glow Peel

      goop Beauty
      GOOPGLOW 15% Glycolic Acid
      Overnight Glow Peel

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    Physical exfoliants include anything from a washcloth to a scrub containing beads or small granules that slough off dead cells manually. They’re easiest to use while showering; you’ll feel an instant softness the second you get out of the shower. Too much intense exfoliation—whether chemical or physical—can be irritating, and physical exfoliants have the potential to cause microtears in the skin. As your skin acclimates to either type of exfoliation, you may be able to increase the frequency (depending on your skin type and level of sensitivity).


    What are the different types of chemical exfoliators?

    Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), poly hydroxy acids (PHAs), fruit and flower acids, and enzymes are among the most common types of chemical exfoliators.

    AHAs

    Water-soluble with small molecular sizes, AHAs are the strongest among the chemical exfoliants. Glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, tartaric, and mandelic acids are AHAs commonly used in skin care. AHAs exfoliate the top layers of skin and are best for dark spots, surface wrinkles, fine lines, uneven skin tone, and even dry skin (glycolic acid was actually initially developed to treat an extreme dry skin condition called ichthyosis).

    1. Glycolic and Lactic Acid Serum


      goop Beauty GOOPGLOW Dark Spot Exfoliating Sleep Milk

      goop Beauty
      GOOPGLOW Dark Spot Exfoliating Sleep Milk
      goop, $98/$89 with subscription

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    2. Glycolic and Phytic Acid Toner


      goop Beauty G.Tox Malachite + AHA Pore Refining Tonic

      goop Beauty
      G.Tox Malachite + AHA Pore Refining Tonic
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    3. Lactic Acid Mask


      Tata Harper Radiance Mask

      Tata Harper
      Radiance Mask
      goop, $68

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    BHAs

    BHAs are slightly larger molecules that are oil-soluble. They penetrate the skin through oil glands, helping unclog pores. The most common BHA in skin care is salicylic acid—it’s in every formula below—which is best for blemish-prone skin where oil production is an issue.

    1. Gel-to-Milk Face Wash
      (Doubles as a Mask)


      Okoko Beauté Majestique Cleanser

      Okoko
      Beauté Majestique Cleanser
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    2. Turmeric Face Wash


      Plantkos Phyto Exfoliating Cleanser

      Plantkos
      Phyto Exfoliating Cleanser
      goop, $37

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    3. Face Wash for the Breakout-Prone


      True Botanicals Clear Nourishing Cleanser

      True Botanicals
      Clear Nourishing Cleanser
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    4. PHAs

      PHAs are larger molecules that are water-soluble and the least irritating of the acids. Ideal for sensitive skin, PHAs exfoliate on the surface of the skin and are best for locking in moisture.

      Gentle (but Effective) Toner


      goop Beauty GOOPGLOW Flower Acids Resurfacing Toner

      goop Beauty
      GOOPGLOW Flower Acids
      Resurfacing Toner

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    5. Fruit and Flower Acids and Enzymes

      These exfoliants work by eating away at dead skin and debris. At moderate concentrations, they’re gentle and well tolerated by many skin types.

      Whipped Balm Cleanser with Fruit Acids


      Skin Design London Face Bath

      Skin Design London
      Face Bath
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    What are combination exfoliants?

    Some of the most effective skin-boosting formulas contain both chemical and physical exfoliants, which are a great complement to each other. The chemical exfoliants dissolve and loosen debris, while the physical exfoliants scrub it away. Combined, the two approaches optimize cellular turnover and leave skin brighter and smoother.

    1. Face Polish

      Glycolic Acid and
      Microexfoliating Minerals


      goop Beauty GOOPGLOW Microderm Instant Glow Exfoliator

      goop Beauty
      GOOPGLOW Microderm Instant Glow Exfoliator
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    2. Cleanser for Sensitive Skin

      Cranberry Enzymes and Rice Powder


      Tata Harper Refining Cleanser

      Tata Harper
      Refining Cleanser
      goop, $88

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    3. Cleanser for Normal and All Skin Types

      Pomegranate Enzymes and Bamboo


      Fath The Resurfacing Botanical Cleanser

      Fath
      The Resurfacing Botanical Cleanser
      goop, $82

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    4. Mask

      Glycolic Acid and Rice Particles


      Humanrace Lotus Enzyme Exfoliator

      Humanrace
      Lotus Enzyme Exfoliator
      goop, $46

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    5. Body Polish

      Hibiscus Flower Acid and
      Microexfoliating Minerals


      goop Beauty GOOPGLOW Microderm Instant Glow Body Polish

      goop Beauty
      GOOPGLOW Microderm Instant
      Glow Body Polish

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    What skin types are chemical exfoliants best for?

    Most skin types and most skin concerns can benefit from gentle regular chemical exfoliation. Not only will your skin look smoother and feel softer, but any skin treatments you use afterward will sink into your skin more evenly and penetrate more deeply; dead skin cells and debris can act as barriers between your skin and skin care.

    1. For Normal and Dry Skin

      Hydrating Toner with Citric Acid


      MAKANAI Pure Botanical Charge Lotion Toner

      MAKANAI
      Pure Botanical Charge Lotion Toner
      goop, $45

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    2. For Sensitive Skin

      Moisturizing Cleanser with Lactic Acid


      Tata Harper Softening Cleanser

      Tata Harper
      Softening Cleanser
      goop, $88

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    What about Oily Skin?

    Oily skin types can typically handle either chemical or purely physical exfoliation. If you get breakouts often, use chemical exfoliants to fight oil and blemishes from a deeper level in the skin; AHAs and salicylic acid are most effective. If using a physical exfoliant, choose one with super fine particles as opposed to big, abrasive granules.

    1. Blemish-Fighting Cleanser with
      Glycolic Acid


      goop Beauty G.Tox Malachite + Fruit Acid Pore Purifying Cleanser

      goop Beauty
      G.Tox Malachite + Fruit Acid Pore
      Purifying Cleanser

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    2. Detoxifying Charcoal Face Scrub


      Clark’s Botanicals Dual Charcoal Detox

      Clark’s Botanicals
      Dual Charcoal Detox
      goop, $45

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    How often should you exfoliate your skin?

    Overexfoliating (exfoliating too often or too intensely for your skin type) can strip away the skin’s protective barrier, leaving it vulnerable to sun damage, dryness, and even infection. So take it slow at first. Never use a product more often than recommended, and never layer intense exfoliants in the same session. If an exfoliant ever feels uncomfortable, rinse it off immediately. If you have sensitive skin, really err on the side of caution and patch-test any exfoliating product before applying it to your face.

    To put it simply, those with less-sensitive skin can exfoliate more frequently, while those who are more sensitive need less-powerful formulas and less frequency overall.


    What types of products should be used in a skin-care routine with exfoliation?

    Exfoliants have the potential to leave skin feeling dry, so moisturize immediately afterward if your skin needs it.

    1. Rich Cream


      Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream

      Augustinus Bader
      The Rich Cream
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    2. Lightweight Lotion


      Alpyn Beauty Triple Vitamin-C Brightening Bounce Cream

      Alpyn Beauty
      Triple Vitamin-C Brightening Bounce Cream
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    3. Firming Face Oil


      goop Beauty GOOPGENES All-in-One Super Nutrient Face Oil

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      GOOPGENES All-in-One Super
      Nutrient Face Oil

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    SPF is very important post-exfoliation, especially since AHAs and BHAs can make skin more sensitive to the sun.

    Vitamin C is one of the most beneficial and researched-for-skin antioxidants for boosting glow, refining texture, and offering protection against environmental aggressors. It’s well tolerated by most skin types, but if you’re sensitive, use it cautiously after exfoliating, since vitamin C itself is a mild exfoliant.


    1. Grown Alchemist Natural Hydrating Sunscreen SPF 30

      Grown Alchemist
      Natural Hydrating Sunscreen SPF 30
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    2. goop Beauty GOOPGLOW 20% Vitamin C + Hyaluronic Acid Glow Serum

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      GOOPGLOW 20% Vitamin C +
      Hyaluronic Acid Glow Serum

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    What’s the best time of day to exfoliate your face?
    Does your skin need time to recover?

    Because chemical exfoliants can make skin more sensitive to the sun, they’re best applied at night. Physical exfoliants can be used morning or night (as long as you’re wearing sunscreen in the day). When exfoliating, be sure to apply the formula to clean skin to prevent makeup or dirt from being pushed deeper, as well as to allow the product to really penetrate.

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    Related Reading

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    How do we test clean beauty products at goop? First they have to pass our standards for clean (goop has some of the toughest standards in the industry). Only then do they make it to our editors’ showers, bathroom counters, and makeup bags, where they are rigorously hand-tested (and road-tested, if we happen to be going on a trip). The goop beauty department is made up of women of varied ages, races, and tastes—if we really love something, we’re pretty confident you’re going to love it, too.

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